pproaching Hanoi reminded me of entering Bangkok, the difference being Bangkok streets are made up of 70% cars and 30% motorcycle, while Hanoi is the opposite. It took us about 45 minutes to get from the edge of town to the center where we were staying. During the ride I tried to figure out the method of riding which I quickly realize was none. You basically just “go for it” and hope other motorist will find ways to avoid you. Later I found out walking the street was the same - if you wait hoping motorist will stop for you forget it! Just start walking and they’ll avoid you.
That same day I decided to explore Hanoi on foot. I was expecting to find an old exotic city rich in history with semblance of the old colonial era, a Paris of the East. I started south and headed north toward the Old Quarter all the way to the West Lake. Personally, the city never felt right to me – I kept on telling myself I was probably in the wrong part of town and things would get better – but that never happened. To me the old never seemed that exotic and the new was never that modern? Hanoi felt like a puzzle that never fitted- there was something messy about the place. You can say the same about Bangkok, however, I would argue there’s a sense of “organize chaos” to it, and something I believe Hanoi’s lack. With the exception of the area surrounding the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex, I was disappointed with the city and never felt in synch with the place. Having said all this, the city does calms down considerably at night, probably due to the lack of vehicles on the road; by night it was a lot more charming.
After a few days I was ready to leave the city and was happy to be heading east for Halong Bay 100km away. We would be seeing the ocean for the first time, a nice break after the hustle and bustle of Hanoi. Halong Bay would also take us the furthest away from home – another 150 km or so east lays the southern tip of China.
The ride over wasn’t very nice with a lot of factories and smog in the air; however, the scenery did improve with the last 30km approaching Halong City. We left our bikes at the pier and rented a Vietnamese junk where we’ll be spending the night among the famous karsts of Halong Bay. To be honest I wasn’t expecting much and was taken by surprised when I walked into an air-condition bed room with heated water. Next door our dinning tables had white tablecloth with matching silver wear and folded napkins. On the deck wine was served at sunset. After roughing it for 2 weeks on a bike I now felt like a rich aristocracy cruising the Nile back in the 1920’s. On top of all this the surrounding was absolutely magnificent, it lifted my spirit greatly after my disappointment with Hanoi. I spent that evening on the deck listening to Floyd on my ipod thinking its moment like these that inspired me to do Dreamchaser in the first place.
After a relax night out in the ocean we got back on our bikes the following morning and headed 150km west for the town of Ninh Binh. The surrounding felt “industrial like” and you can sense that the country was growing at a fast pace. On the way over there was a thunderstorm and the wind was blowing extremely hard. My bike was literally being pushed from side to side by the strong wind and by the time we got to our destination I was soaked wet. The crew was hungry and wanted to eat right away, I told them forget it – “ you try eating with your sock and underwear wet!”
The next day we drove another 280 km west for the border town of Na Meo where we would cross back into Laos at Nam Xoi. The last 80 km was nice being back in the mountains.
Overall, I never felt right in Vietnam – things seems to be out of place with a constant struggle between the old and new. Politically it’s a communist country but economically it’s definitely heading toward liberalization. After the fast pace of Vietnam it was nice crossing into Laos where time seems to slow down considerably.
From the border it was a short ride to the small town of Sam Neua where we’ll be spending the night. On the way over we stopped in Vieng Xai where lies the famous Pathet Lao caves. It was here where the Pathet Lao revolutionary used the well-sheltered caves as their headquarters during the Second Indochina War avoiding heavy US bombing. The most famous of the caves is Tham Than Kaysone, the office and residence of the PL chief, who later served as Prime Minister & President from 1975 to 1992. I had a personal reason for visiting this place since Than Kayson is the older brother of my sister’s husbands mom - I guess we’re somewhat related! After spending 2 hours at the cave we got back on our bikes and arrived at Sam Neua upon nightfall.
For the ten days I was in Vietnam you couldn’t avoid the image and presence of Ho Chi Minh. Ho Chi Minh’s friend, Than Kayson, was the leader of Lao Issara and the Indochinese Communist Party and his image is everywhere to be seen in Laos. I grew up in the 80’s during the Cold War when Russia, leader of the communist world, was portrayed as the “Evil Empire” by the then Reagan administration. Anything having to do with communism had a negative connotation to it, including Vietnam and Laos. However, having spent time in Vietnam and Laos for the pass 3 weeks I did not view Ho Chi Minh and Than Kayson as communist revolutionist but more so as nationalist fighting for the freedom of their country. To me, communism was a means to their end. I’m strongly against the idea of colonialism and us Thais are proud to have never been colonized.
Next week we continue our journey to Phonsawan where lies the mystical Plain of Jars along with war relics from the pass. 
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